Solder one wire to the left motor brush lead, then to the left decoder motor pad. Repeat for the right side. Be sure there are no solder bridges between the two decoder motor pads. You must be sure that neither the installed wires nor the copper brush leads can touch the metal frame or you will destroy the decoder.
Use small pieces of Kapton tape to prevent shorts. Some recent Atlas locomotives have small metal clips mounted on the four corners of the light board where they contact the frame. Removing the light board may cause the clips to come off the light board fly off never to be found again; order replacements from Atlas.
These clips are very difficult to attach to the decoder so they will stay in place. The solution is to spot solder then in place using a little solder as possible, and then install the decoder. Even after doing this the above issues with the motor tabs may be encountered. This may result in poor electrical contact with the frame, particularly if the decoder board is slightly thinner than the light board.
If the decoder board is slightly thicker than the light board use some extra but gentle force to place the decoder in the correct position in the locomotive frame. Don't use too much force as the circuit board is easily damaged. If the decoder board is slightly thinner than the light board and does not fit snugly then you will need to build a very small solder dome on the power contact points at the four corners of the decoder.
Do this very carefully, as you want to end up with a snug fit, but remember that the decoder must slip into the slots in the frame. Use a soldering iron with a small round tip and 15 watts maximum. Heat the decoder power pad with the soldering iron while applying solder until a very thin dome forms, then remove the soldering iron and allow to cool. Very carefully insert do not overly force the decoder in the Atlas frame and re-assemble the locomotive. If a great deal of force is required then the solder dome is too high; remove some solder with the soldering iron and try again.
Older locomotives generally must use a wired decoder to convert the locomotive to DCC. This may require the purchase of a retroframe or milling of the OEM frame, or you may modify the frame yourself.
Information about retroframes and modifying frames, as well as the tools you will need to perform your conversion are listed below. Even if your locomotive is DCC-ready you can generally install a wired decoder, probably without modifying the frame. Several of the descriptions below give directions on installing wired decoders in such locomotives. Locomotive frames must be precisely manufactured to give the correct orientation and tolerances for drive train components, and alignment of the motor and electrical pickups, etc.
Southern Digital creates a copy of the die cast original frame modified with the wiring channels and space for the decoder. These are then copy cast in rubber molds in lower temperature, but more dense, alloys than the original. The method I have used on several layouts for gluing the track to the roadbed has been with a rubber based cement Elmer's, Walther's GOO. As far as holding the track in place just use the nails on the inside of the rail on curves and stagger them in a straight line for the straight sections.
For the roadbed use white glue, and it is best to solder your curve sections together while leaving small gaps in the straight sections to allow for expansion. The width of the gap can be about the thickness of a 3x5" index card.
With these gaps try to stagger them so that they are not directly across from each other. I laid my son's "N" scale layout like this 4 years ago and with the temperature going from 20 deg F to about Deg there has been no kinking or movement of the track.
BTW his layout is in the garage that is not well insulated either. Happy Modeling John. I just finished ' using Goo on cork. For holding the track in place briefly I used push pins. Use a fine line of Goo down the middle of where you want the track.
Keep it away from switch points! Roger B. Stick with the glue it will give you the opportunity to make adjustments if needed while the glue sets and once it is set its done. Remember to use electrical drops for each section of track as well. This meant milling, if you knew how and had the equipment, or hogging away with a file.
Then came complete disassembly. Eventually, Aztec Manufacturing Co. If you have an older engine you want to hard-wire, I have two recommendations: The first is to use the two-piece decoder made by Train Control Systems.
One piece plugs in where the front light board goes; the other replaces the board at the rear. The lights are already on the new boards, and you have only five solder connections to make.
When doing so you risk having the brush springs pop out, and trying to find them is pure misery. Drop-in decoders. Should I ever meet the person who realized you could build a decoder on a replacement light board, I will very happily treat them to lunch.
In theory at least, this development turned a 2- to 3-hour job into one that took only five minutes and was much more likely to end in success. Make sure the tabs that contact the decoder pads are properly lined up and doing their job. After muttering a few curse words, I take the decoder back out, clean the contact pads with a pencil eraser, and am in business.
It would make a lot of sense to clean these before beginning the installation, but that seems to never occur to me. As I said at the beginning , the easiest solution to DCC installation is to let the factory do it, and my experience with ready-to-run DCC has been very good.
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